Friday, August 21, 2009

A Day In the Life of the Pediatric Wards at Kamuzu Central Hospital


Disclaimer: I initially sent this out only to my doctor and medical friends. I didn't post it to the blog because it both contains a lot of medicalese (some of which I have tried to translate), and because it is fairly graphic and disturbing. So if you are easily traumatized by medical horror stories, do not keep reading. But the truth is, this is what medical care is like on most of this planet, and I think it is important for us all to realize (debates over single payer vs. public option vs. non-profit healthcare collectives aside) that we are extraordinarily lucky, and that life is a lot harder when you are poor in the developing world.

The clinician on duty walks into the High Dependency Unit (HDU) and begins the day by saying “Is everyone still alive?”. 4-6 children die every night in the hospital’s 200+ pediatric beds, spread over 5 wards. The HDU only has 5 beds, but they are reserved for the sickest, most complicated kids. In any hospital in the developed world, these children would be in an intensive care unit. The fact that all of the patients that were here when we left last night are still here is a small miracle. One is a 16 year old boy who was admitted yesterday in DKA (diabetic ketoacidosis). Or so we think. He has a history of recurrent abdominal pain and vomiting. He is severely malnourished. And his blood sugar was over 600. There is no way to measure pH. STAT electrolytes take 4-6 hours to return (which is amazing, since usually they take a week), and there is no such thing as measuring IV fluid rates or giving meds by drip. His blood sugar has come down to the 300s with IV fluids (measured by drops/minute) and subcutaneous insulin. His mental status has improved. He is lucky.

Next to him is a 10 year old boy who presented with body swelling and respiratory distress. We did a thoracentesis (stuck a needle into the space between his chest wall and his lungs to remove fluid) in the treatment room 2 days ago and got mostly blood. We were thinking that maybe he had some kind of heart failure causing his pleural effusions, ascites (fluid in the belly), and hypertension, but his electrolytes came back showing massive renal failure, revealing his diagnosis of underlying kidney disease. We put him on prednisone (no albumin available here, and lasix might dangerously dehydrate him further). Miraculously, the adult dialysis team comes and says they could manage to do peritoneal dialysis on a child if the surgeon would kindly place the pigtail catheter. Sure, no problem. So far so good.

The 4 yr old patient across the small room in Bed 4 can be heard wailing under the iron cage that keeps the blankets from touching her body. She has full thickness burns covering over 50% of her body, including her face, both arms and hands, and torso. She was burned because some other kids in her village locked her in a thatched hut and set it on fire. There are no plastic surgeons in Malawi, no opportunity for skin grafts or physical therapy or even adequate dressings. Topical treatments include penicillin powder and mashed papaya. We are waiting for her to die.

And yet, it has been a successful morning in the HDU. Labs that were ordered have come back. Consults have been answered. Children are still alive. Then we start rounds on the HIV patients, and we enter Ward A.

Ward A is a long narrow room with 10-15 cribs or beds lining each wall, which are painted with chipped murals of safari animals. There are 2 children in each bed. (And this is the quiet season. When the rains start, and malaria runs rampant, there will be 3-4 children per bed and you won’t be able to walk to the end of the ward). Large cumbersome oxygen concentrators are mounted to the wall and look like prehistoric octopi with as many as 6 different tubes snaking to the many children with respiratory distress. Mothers dressed in the same bright traditional fabrics they have been wearing all week look hopefully up through exhausted eyes, hoping that you, the azungo (white) doctor are here to see their child. Occasionally, the nurses wind the crank on the Grundig radio and some lilting African music or Christian bible preaching temporarily drowns out the crying and coughing of sick sick babies.

Mphatso is almost 2 yrs old. She is HIV +, and has massive generalized lymphadenopathy, Making her neck so swollen that her head is shaped like an eggplant; the lymph nodes so large they are impinging on her airway making it hard to breath. Her saturation today is only 87% on O2 (though the 2 litres/min she is supposed to be getting is being shared with 2 other kids through endless splitting of the O2 tubing). She looks tired, and ready to be done with it all, though she is dressed in her best Dora sweatshirt and shiny pink skirt. We are holding her chemo (Vincristine and Bleomycin are the only drugs available, whether you have KS, ALL, or lymphoma, any of which may be her diagnosis) because she is febrile and neutropenic. She shares a bed in the open ward with two other babies.

We don’t round on George, the 13 year old with relapsed cryptococcal meningitis, because he died overnight. His bed has quickly been filled by someone else. It is unclear who covers the hospital at night. Technically there is a Clinical Officer on call (which is basically the equivalent of a paramedic, but who provide the bulk of the medical care in Malawi). There is no routine taking of vital signs, meds are only given three times a day, and Mums do the vast majority of the “nursing” care. They sleep on the wooden benches or on the floor, so that they can breastfeed their children, and attend to them during the night.

We move on to the nursery, which is comparatively quiet, with lots of sunlight streaming in through the windows. Beyond the faded, grimy curtains, are rows of laundry hanging to dry, Mum’s washing their naked brown children with swollen bellies, and people resting on the ground in the fresh air. As we try to figure out what is going on with this HIV-exposed infant who has supposedly had fever x 2 weeks, I notice a Mum sitting on the floor holding a tiny tiny infant who looks like he is minutes away from death. He is one month old but weighs 2 kg (less than 5 pounds) and has the appearance of a small frightened aquatic alien who has been thrust into the air and forced to make do with ill-equipped biology. He is severely malnourished, his eyes are wide and unseeing and frightened, his tiny hands are squeezed into balled fists and shaking as if in protest to this cruel cruel world. Someone has admitted him to the NRU (nutritional rehabilitation unit), but failed to notice that he is also severely dehydrated, a febrile neonate, and on death’s door. Or maybe they did notice, but he is not so different from the hundreds of other children that pass through this hospital on a daily basis. There is no triage system here.

I take him to the treatment room and place an IV in his scalp. I give him a 10 ml/kg bolus, not wanting to overload him, since it is difficult to assess for dehydration in a patient that is so severely malnourished. But his heart rate quickly decreases from >200 to 140, and he seems a bit less agitated, though when you pinch his belly skin, it stays tented for a good 3-5 seconds. I run some more fluids, and offer him some oral rehydration fluid through a syringe, which he tries to swallow. Good sign. I let the medical student do a spinal tap, which he gets, but which is grossly bloody. HSV meningitis? Hypoxic brain injury causing a bleed? I will never know, because I can’t order a PCR, and the closest CT scanner is 6 hours away by bus and is currently broken.

Despite a respiratory rate of about 12, the tiny baby seems to be staying alive, and I am relieved. The other children in the treatment room are not so lucky. One is a 7 month old febrile child who has been seizing since this morning. Her fontanelle is so bulging that her forehead is soft and squishy. I give her intramuscular diazepam and try desperately to get IV access. Multiple peripheral sticks, 2 intra-osseous (IO) attempts, 2 femoral line attempts (both IO and fem lines tried using a regular 22g IV cannula) later, I find some Ceftriaxone at the clinic (the hospital has completely run out) and give her a whopping dose IM. One of the medical students has inserted a nasogastric tube, and without IV access, that is going to be her only source of fluids. She is not my patient – she just happened to be in the treatment room (the closest thing to a Peds ER), was in status epilepticus, and I happened to be the only clinician in the room – and so I did the things I knew how to do to take care of her. I write down the lab tests and medications that she will need in her chart, and hope that someone will actually look at it before tomorrow morning.

Another baby, who actually is my patient (being an HIV-exposed infant) has come into the treatment room with one of the clinical officers. He has had fever, vomiting, diarrhea and respiratory distress, and looks lethargic. The CO is working diligently on getting an IV, giving Quinine for presumed malaria, antibiotics, oxygen, IVF, etc, so I focus my attention on the others who are precariously hanging on. The next thing I know, the mother is wailing “lululululululululu” and a blanket has been pulled over the baby’s head. This one didn’t make it.

I look around. It is 5:00pm. There are 10 children on the bench being cradled by their mum’s, holding the IV bags in their free hands. At least 3 of them look like they are about to sink into unconsciousness. There are no other doctors or clinical officers in the room. No nurses to be seen, only the two orderlies dressed in masks, gloves and plastic aprons who have come to take the dead baby to the morgue. I realize that if I choose to stay, I will never leave tonight. Tomorrow is another day. I slowly back out of the room, trying to avoid the pleading but silent gazes of the mums who seem resigned to the inevitability of waiting. Right now, their children are still alive, and that is something to be thankful for.

I may be pan-spritually, ethnically Jewish, but I find my fingers making the sign of the cross as I slowly walk across the yard of the pediatric ward, my eyes raised to the glowing orange orb of the setting sun, silently mouthing a prayer to protect these poor babes and their mum’s; and that if they must die, to let it be quick and painless, without suffering.

But do not fear my friends!! Life in the clinic is a whole 'nother story. Kids with Stage IV HIV get put on anti-retroviral medications and gain weight, fight infection, and recover. We hand out prescription peanut butter fortified with vitamins and minerals and lots of good calories ("ready to use therapeutic food") and large-headed, swollen-bellied, skinny-limbed kids come back fat and happy. Teenagers attend our monthly Teen Club and play soccer, act out skits about HIV and have fun with their friends without having to worry about being stigmatised for having a disease.

The hospital is an unfortunate, sad place that is chronically understaffed, under-resourced, and the referral center for all the district hospitals who send all of the super-sick patients who aren't getting better. We have instituted universal HIV testing for all kids that get admitted, so that if they do get better, they can be identified and referred into appropriate care. I am optimistic about this year, and am looking forward to the challenging work that lies ahead. This week was just an eye-opener into the reality of life in Africa. I am realizing that I am going to forget most of what I learned in residency while I am here, but will learn so so so much more.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Chifue, Chifine


Chifue (Chee-foo-aye) = cough
Chifine (Chee-fee-naye) = runny nose

I've had both for the past week, which may explain the lack of recent blog posts. No worries, I am on the mend, and even scored a couple of times at frisbee the other day.

Despite the head cold, I've been fully able to appreciate the sensory experiences that Lilongwe has to offer.

SOUNDS:
I awaken every morning to the chirping of birds, and the "squuuuuaaaaaaaaccck" of this huge black and white raven-looking bird that seems to be the pigeon of Malawi. I wonder if Grandpa George would call it a raven or a crow, since I have no idea which side of the Mississippi we are on. Mohammed called it something like kwangwa, or maybe I am just making that up since that is sort of what it sounds like. At night I go to bed to the sound of crickets and a symphony of dog barking that starts at one end of the neighborhood and waves its way around and around until I guess they all get tired, or realize that they aren't really barking at anything at all. Today I found out that Clare (my dog) can howl in perfect harmony with a car alarm. Turns out she has a lovely voice :) Occasionally I hear the whining protests of Kelvin, the almost 2 year old rotund little boy who is Mohammed and Matilda's younger son, who appears to have quite a developed sense of right and wrong.

SIGHTS:
The earth is brick red and dusty. Succulents and tropical vines grow side by side. Purple, pink and red flowers are just starting to bloom on barren trees (yes, it is winter here, despite temperatures in the 70s). Women come to clinic draped in three of four different layers of chitenje, the traditional brightly colored block-printed cloth that is used to strap babies on their backs . The girls on the other hand (from infants to teens) wear their best outfits to come to the doctor, so it feels like the prom every day, with ruffles, bows, gauzy fabric, and occasionally tap-shoes. The air is hazy and grey from the smoke of burning fields and garbage fires (see SMELLS). Every night the sun sets as a flaming crimson orb sending out florescent pink tendrils into the tangerine sky. Pollution makes for some pretty amazing sunsets.

SMELLS:
This should probably should have been the first category, as the smells are probably the most striking sensory experience here. Mostly there is the smokey, rich, earthy smell of fires. This time of year, fields are burned in preparation of the rains and planting season. The organic smoke mingles with the slightly acrid smell of burning trash in pits on the sides of the roads, and the turpentine smell of diesel fuel. The most amazing smell is the B.O. It is beyond onions, or sweaty socks, or unshaven French girls, or anything I have ever smelled before. I don't know if it is something in the diet, or the fact that most people seem to wear the same clothes for days and days in a row (due to lack of something else to wear, or resources to wash clothes, or a genetic mutation that doesn't register the sebaceous gland emanations, or what), but none of the locals seem to notice. Meanwhile I am choking back a cough and rushing to open a window. Then yesterday, my friend Carrie came into the room where I was seeing a patient and said "did you check her ear, because it smells like it is draining". Sure enough, she was right.

TASTES:
Malawian cuisine is nothing to write home about. Nsima (see-ma) is the staple food of locals, which is finely ground maize meal made into a polenta-like substance and eaten in enormous mounds with a garnish of chicken or vegetables. Fish is plentiful, due to our proximity to Lake Malawi, and when eaten fried, is called chambo but I haven't tried it yet. My housekeeper Mohammed makes me dinner everynight, the highlight of which has been homemade chapati's (basically flour tortillas) and refried red beans, made with tomatoes, onions and fresh herbs. He also made the left-over chapatis into pizza, with spicy tomato chutney, bacon, and veggies. Yum! I showed him the one cookbook I brought with (Molly Katzen's Vegetable Heaven) and he was immediately engrossed. That night he made potato and chard soup. However, I think I need to give him a few pointers on the finer points of medium rare, as most of the meat has come out tasting a bit like leather. Perhaps he is just protecting my mazungo stomach from the local critters? Today's treat was straciatella gelato, from the italian cafe. Delish. The main thing that I can't seem to find in the grocery stores here is good chocolate (preferably of the dark variety, if anybody happens to be sending any mail to Malawi...)

FEELINGS:
The air here is heavy with smoke and dust, but is almost always perfect body temperature. Whether I am wearing a t-shirt or a cashmere sweater, I always feel comfortable. At night my favorite thing is to put on a certain pair of brightly striped handmade socks. My shower has astonishing water pressure and the bath gets so hot it is like being in a hot-tub (which is especially nice after frisbee). When I get home at the end of the day, Clare bounds up to greet me and tries to give me a tongue bath, which I politely decline, even though her tongue is soft and her breath doesn't smell. I feel happy to be here and it increasingly feels like home. I feel overwhelmed by the amount of disease and poverty, but optimistic about actually being able to do something to help. I am finally starting to not feel tired all the time (N.B. I did not say that I feel rested) which may have something to do with going to bed at 9:30 every night. I don't feel lonely at all, but I miss my friends and my family and especially my grandparents. So stay in touch!!


Monday, August 10, 2009

Correction*

Wow, it is really bad blogiquette to publish your own address wrong in your very first blog post.

Please note, the address of this blog is: rachelkf.blogspot.com.

Though if you are reading this, you have probably figured that out.

* (sorry, I don't know how to say that in Chichewa)

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Zikomo Kwambiri*


One week down, and so far so good! I have already played ultimate frisbee twice, eaten at the Chinese Restaurant, been visited by the Mormons, made good friends with my dog Clare, and successfully driven on the left side of the road (with left-handed shift!) without hitting anything. Oh, and I have also withstood the tremendous temptation to not buy the kittens or puppies that the boys sell on the side of the road!! I also resisted buying the singed mice on a skewer, that are also sold on the side of the road. These are apparently a favorite Malawian snack. The boys wait by the fields as they are being burned (in preparation for planting season) and then go and collect all the poor rodents who didn't make it out. I will have to photograph someone eating one, but this is one delicacy I am NOT going to try.

So far Malawi is great. The best part is my housekeeper Mohammed, who cooks, cleans, gardens, and teaches me about the ins and outs of this place. He is just about the sweetest man I have ever met. When he tidied the bathroom the first day, he found a flowered juice glass to put my toothbrush in, and he arranges the groceries aesthetically in the pantry :) My house is a sprawling 4 bedroom/4 bathroom ranch style affair, and I am only really using half of it. Pictures in separate post. There is a large yard surrounding the property (which is quite small compared to the grounds of the other mazungos (foreigners), and it is all surrounded by a tall brick fence topped with razor wire and closed with a large iron gate that is manned by 1-2 guards around the clock.

While there is not a lot of violent crime in Malawi, there is a lot of robbery, because there is such an incredible disparity between the haves (mazungos, and a small Malawian upper class) and the have-nots (which is the vast majority of people, who make $100/month if they are lucky). And things here are not cheap. You can get just about anything you need (except dark chocolate...) but I guess since it is just the rich people who are buying those things, and not a lot of them, the prices are ridiculously high. I am so uncomfortable with the idea of all these people working for me, providing luxuries and a lifestyle that is completely unattainable to them, but I guess at least I am giving them a good job, and a living wage. Especially when I am here to provide a service to other people! It seems so backwards.

I start work for real next week, and I am sure there will be much to report. I am still trying to figure out all of the details about communication, but my contact details for now are as follows:

email: rkrepsfalk@gmail.com (same) or krepsfal@bcm.edu

phone: 510-545-4452 (this is my skype #, which should theoretically get forwarded to my Malawian cell phone when I figure out how to do that). Or if you want to dial direct, my cell phone is +265-99-338-7399.

internet: bookmark my blog! rkrepsfalk.blogspot.com.
skype name is rkrepsfalk

mail: I don't know about the reliability of the Malawian postal service, but FedEx, UPS and DHL all get delivered fairly reliably. The best address for me is
Dr. Rachel Kreps-Falk
Baylor College of Medicine, Children's Center of Excellence
Kamuzu Central Hospital
Private Bay B-397
Lilongwe 3, Malawi

* Zikomo Kwambiri = Thank you very much. Which is the only thing I know how to say in Chechwe.